The shadowy figures appeared from down the long beach, but their rhythmic singing reassured me. They had been gathering shell-fish delicacies after some had assisted in delivering a new-born, and set up a bon-fire to which neighbours brought guitars and bits of food. We had a party, said our goodbyes, and Tula invited me to catch the early morning bus with him on his way back to work in the capital. My informative week in a Samoan paradise was nearing its end....